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Our Cup Of Tea
Teresa M. Chen, Ph.D.
The origin of the English word tea is te, as it is pronounced
in the Southern Min dialect region of coastal China, which includes
Xiamen (Amoy), Chaozhou, and the island of Taiwan. Tea was first
mentioned in the Book of Odes, approximately 600 B.C., though
legend has its discovery dating back to Shennong of about 2,700
B.C.
Tea is an infusion made from steeping leaves of the tea plant
in boiling water. Originally it was used medicinally to ward off
fatigue or as an antidote to excess alcohol and rich food. Because
of its stimulating aroma and pleasant taste, as well as its refreshing
effects, tea has become the beverage of China for nearly tow thousand
years.
By 350 A.D. tea-drinking has become quite common among the intelligentsia.
The Tang Dynasty (618-907 A.D.) saw tea advanced to an art in
the hands of Tea Masters like Lu Yu who wrote a comprehensive
Book of Tea in which he described in detail numerous varieties
of tea, their origin, and the picking, processing, and preparation
of tea. Lu Yu placed special emphasis on the purity of water for
making tea. Reputedly he was able to discern subtle differences
in water quality.
Tender tea leaves were picked at dawn in early spring on high
mountain slopes. The freshly picked leaves would be dried in a
furnace, pounded and pressed into a mould to form a cake. Tea
is prepared by taking slices or slabs from the cake, grinding
the packed leaves into powder, passing it through a sieve and
then swishing the powder in hot water, the use of tea powder prevailed
in the Tang Dynasty and spread to Japan in the ninth century.
The demands for tea by the imperial court spurred the cultivation
of tea and the growth of a tea industry fully controlled by government.
As tea was used to barter for horses for military use, private
trade was forbidden. The crafts of making earthenware utensils
and wooden or bamboo accessories for tea were also developed in
Tang times.
The art of tea rose to new heights with the refinement of ceramic
pottery in the Song Dynasty (960-1280 A.D.). Loose-leaf tea such
as we use today became popular during this period. Tea leaves
are partially or fully fermented before roasting, resulting in
three classes of tea: green tea (unfermented), wulong tea (60-75%
fermented) and black tea (fully fermented).
The Emperor Hui-Zong was a tea master. He wrote a treatise on
tea cultivation, processing, tea utensils, and the art of tea
drinking. The Emperor Qian-Long of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1910
A.D.) was also a tea connoisseur. His tearoom, san Xi Tang, was
reconstructed in the Palace Museum in Taipei with vast collection
of tea utensils on display.
Tea is now grown in more than forty countries all over the world/
It is still a popular beverage rivaled only by coffee and cocoa
in the twentieth century. Most Chinese prefer drinking their tea
without additives. Aromatic flowers and fruit such as Jasmine,
roses, and hawthorn berries were assed to lower grades of tea
to give them new characters so as to command better prices.
The Manchus, like the Mongols and Tibetans, often as added butter
or mild to their tea. As tea drinking reached England in the eighteenth
century, the English adopted the Manchus way of drinking tea with
mild. Besides milk and sugar, other additives commonly used are
lemon and honey, mint, and barley. Other herbs can also be added,
though an infusion of medicinal herbs can be called an herb tea
in its own right. Examples are ginseng tea, chrysanthemum tea,
and honey suckle tea. Yet, tea is the ultimate of all herb teas.
The “tea doctor” Lu Tong enumerated the benefits of
drinking tea in his poem, translated into English by Johh Blofeld
in The Chinese Art of Tea (Shambhala Publications, 1985):
The
first bowl sleekly moistened throat and lips;
The second banished all my loneliness;
The third expelled the dullness from my mind;
Sharpening inspiration gained from books I’ve read.
The fourth brought forth light perspiration.
Dispersing a lifetime’s troubles through my pores.
The fifth bowl cleansed ev’ry atom of my being,
The sixth has made me kin to the Immortals,
The seventh is the utmost I can drink-
A light breeze issues from my armpits [as I take wing].
April 1999
Information contained in this
bulletin is for educational purposes only, and not intended to
replace medical advice.
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